“Safety” when you climb alone

Is never 100% safe when you speed climb alone but here some techniques to be “safer” when you climb alone and want to have some protection in some meters:

1) 2 daisy or slings. Climb with a harmess with 2 daisy or long slings with one carabinner on each one. On the hard or exposed steeps clip one dasy on the bolts or piton or on something you carry, climb and clip the other higger before unclip the one down.

2) 1 long sling. Take one long sling on the hand, you can envolve the sling around the hand to make shorter. When you arrive to a expose or dificult steep, you can clip the carabinner and when you’re over on a confident place unclip.climb alone 1 climb alone 2 climb alone 3
3) short rope. Take a short rope (the length depending how long are the sectioms you want to be protect). fixe one extreme of the rope on the harness and pass the rope on the belay, and fixe the other extreme of the rope on the harness, climb clipping points and when you end, take off one extreme of the rope and recover the rope as you recover a  rope ager a rappel. The only problem is that if you felt you felt all the rope lenght.
4) short rope with prussik. Take a short rope and pass on the belay to the middle rope (as a rappel) put a prussik to your harness and climb up putting points ( climb as you’re doing a rappel but on way up) you can make nuts every X meters from the prusik to the extremes of the rope in case the prussic don’t stop if you felt. Another problem can be if the prussik rope burn amd brake, you can fix you to the extremes of the rope for that.

Categories: techniques

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2 replies »

    • Thanks for sharing, could you please elaborate on the Long Sling option? Is it preventing from a fall or just a “mentally” reassuring to have the feeling to be clipped to the wall, thanks

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